![]() You use this for valve adjustments, etc., but not for setting your timing). This timing mark represents 7 degrees before top dead center. On the 2F engine it looks like a "bb" pressed into the fly wheel. before you start make sure you know what your timing mark looks like. The only thing I would add to the above post is:ġ. It'll be much higher than base, mine was sitting at about 8* after adjusting to about 6* base.ġ1) Drive around and listen carefully for pinging, knocking, etc. After locking the bolt, double check the timing to make sure you didn't change it when tightening the bolt.ġ0) Remove the jumper, and check the timing. Once you've found a good spot, tighten the bolt to lock the dizzy in place. It does not take much movement to change the timing. Mine was about 6* using regular fuel (not premium). Try and find the highest timing where it doesn't stutter/stumble, ping, etc. If properly adjusted to the OEM spec, the timing should now drop to 3*.Ĩ) There is a bolt just behind the distributor that locks it in place, loosen this bolt (do not remove it).ĩ) With the timing gun aimed at the crank pulley, play with the dizzy and watch the timing drop from below 0* to above 10*. Use a piece of wire or paper clip to jump TE1 and E1.ħ) Go back to the front of the engine and use the timing gun again. On the inside of the cap is a guide telling you which holes are which. This is NOT your base timing, but the current timing of the engine.Ħ) Attached to the firewall on the passenger side is a diagnostics box. At this point it should be just a bit to the left of the 3, probably around 6* or so. There's a notch on the crank pulley that will show up. Pull the trigger on the timing gun and it'll start flashing. On the top of the crank pulley you should have a plate that's labeled 15 10 3 0. Verify you're idling around 650 RPM (I was at 625).ĥ) Aim the timing gun at the crank pulley. Make sure engine is up to normal operating temperature/mode. Turn off all draws (AC, fan, radio, lights, etc). It *SHOULD* be the one closest to you if properly routed.ģ) Battery leads for the timing gun go on the battery.Ĥ) Start the engine. It'll look like this Harbor Freight one: Xenon Timing LightĢ) The inductive pickup clips around/onto the #1 spark plug wire. You don't need an advance on the light for the Cruiser. From what I've read, half the people with lights with advances on them hate the advance because if it's misadjusted it throws everything off. I would *NOT* get a light with an advance on it, that is adjustable, or anything fancy. Sorry for the questions, I just have no clue how to use this thing.ġ) Buy a timing light. On the Path I can see the pointy tab on the engine, but I don't see anything on the crank pulley. I also used it on my 95 Nissan Pathfinder, and I also hooked the spark plug attacment to plug number 1. I assume that the timing on the plow truck is dead on accurate as the truck on has 37,000 miles on it and it is totally stock. I see the timing mark on the crank pulley with the light on it, and that line matches up with a line on a tab mounted to the engine. I used it on the truck, and I hooked the spark plug wire clip to cyl #1. The light has a pos and neg battery connection, and a spark plug wire clip. I was playing around with it on my 79 Toyota 4x4 plow truck. I have never set the timing on any vehicle ever before, so I have no clue how to use this thing. A friend gave me a new (new in box Craftsman, but the item is at least 25 years old or so.) inductive timing light. ![]()
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